Rob Smith

Mountain & Ski Guide
Rob Smith at Everest Base Camp during the puja ceremony, tsampa flour covers his face to signify a long and prosperous life.

AC Guide Rob Smith has been guiding for nearly 25 years, predominantly in Antarctica and the Himalaya. When he's not mountain biking or sea kayaking near his Fort William home, Rob loves nothing more than getting out into beautiful places and sharing challenges and adventures with other climbers.

Born in Omagh, Northern Ireland and now based in Fort William, Scotland, Rob started climbing in 1989. Rob has been guiding since 2000 and now divides his time between guiding during the summer Antarctic seasons and the greater ranges of the Himalaya.

A man of many talents, Rob holds a Pre-Hospital Emergency Care qualification and was formerly a Combat Medical Technician and Off-Shore Medic. Notable guided ascents include Mt Everest, Mt Vinson, Cho Oyu, Carstensz Pyramid, K2 and Mt Elbrus amongst many others. Rob loves guiding because he gets to share his passion for adventure and challenge with other people, spending time in beautiful places. He enjoys meeting interesting people and sharing experiences with them. "That can be spending time together in a tent in bad weather, or standing on top of a mountain fulfilling a lifetime ambition."

When at home, as well as mountain biking and sea kayaking, Rob enjoys watching movies and discovering new music.

BIO
Notable Ascents

Seven Summits

Everest (8,850m/29,035ft)

  • AC Guide, South East Ridge 2015 (no summit), 2017, 2018, 2019, 2021
  • North East Ridge 2013, 2014
  • Everest North Col (7,060m/26,163ft) 2012

Elbrus (5,642m/18,510ft)

  • AC Lead Guide x 2 summits 2017
  • Elbrus West (5,642m/18,510ft) & East Summit (5,622m/18,445ft) 2009

Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m/16,023ft)

  • AC Lead Guide 2016

Mount Vinson (4,892m/16,050ft)

  • 2018/19 x 2
  • 2015/16 x 2
  • 2013
  • 2012 x 2 (new route via Eastern Approach & Traverse)
  • 2011
  • 2010/11 x 2
  • 2009/10 x 2
  • 2008/9

Kilimanjaro (5,895m/19,340ft)

  • Machame Route 2019
  • Western Breach 2009

Aconcagua (6,962m/22,841ft)

  • Traverse, Valle de Vacas-Plaza de Mulas 2009

Denali (6,190m/20,308ft)

  • North-West Buttress Attempt and West Rib Climb 2003

8,000m Climbs

  • Manaslu (8,163m/26,781ft) 2019
  • Lhotse (8,516m/27,939ft) 2019
  • K2 (8,611m/28,251ft) 2018
  • Cho Oyu (8,188m/26,863ft) 2011

Antarctica

  • Mount Sporli (2,255m/7,398ft), First ascent 2013
International Expeditions

8,000m Expeditions

  • Lhotse (8,516m/27,939ft) AC Lead Guide 2016 (no summit), 2019
  • K2 (8,611m/28,251ft) 2018
  • Manaslu summit (8,163m/26,781ft) 2019
  • Manaslu attempt (7,200m/22,600ft reached) 2013
  • Cho Oyu (8,188m/26,863ft) 2011
  • Makalu - SE Ridge attempt (7,450m/24,500ft reached) 2010

Himalayan Climbs

  • Cholatse (6,440m/21,128ft) AC Lead Guide 2023
  • Ama Dablam (6,828m/22,401ft) AC Lead Guide 2017
  • Lhakpa Ri (7,045m/23,114ft) 2012
  • Island Peak (6,189m/20,305ft) 2012
  • Stok Kangri (6,153m/20,187ft) 2011
  • Kharut Pyramid attempt, Karakorum (6,019m/19,747ft) 2006

Antarctica

  • Branscomb Peak (4,520m/14,829ft) 2019
  • Ski South Pole – Coast to Pole (916km/569 miles) 2014
  • Mount Sidley (4,285m/14,058ft) Lead Guide 2013
  • Mount Shinn (4,660m/15,289ft) 2010, 2019
  • Sublime Peak (4,865m/15,961ft) 2010, 2019
  • South Pole Ski the Last Degree 2009 x 2, 2011, 2015/16, 2017
  • Pine Island Glacier, Science Support 2007
  • Ellsworth Mountains, Science Support 2006
  • Mount Reeves (2,012m/6,061ft), Mount Barre (2,154m/7,067ft) winter ascents, Adelaide Island, 2005
  • Mount Liotard (2,356m/7,730ft) winter ascent and new routing 2005
  • Pine Island Glacier, Science Support 2005
  • James Ross Island, Science Support 2004
  • Dronning Maud Land, Science Support 2002/3
  • Seymour Island, Science Support 2000/1

Europe

  • Charmoz (3,445m/11,302ft) 2004
  • Grepon (3,482m/11,424ft) Traverse D 2004
  • Grand Montet-Aiguille Verte Traverse D (4,122m/13,524ft, Whymper Couloir descent) 2004
  • Grande Jorasses Traverse D (4,208m/13,806ft, Rochefort Arête) 2004
  • Lagginhorn (4,010m/13,156ft) 2000
  • Castor (4,423m/14,511ft) 2000
  • Pollux (4,092m/13,425ft) 2000
  • Breithorn (4,165m/13,665ft) 2000
  • Alphubel (4,206m/13,799ft) 2000
  • Matterhorn (4,478m/14,691ft) 2000
  • Monte Rosa Traverse, Vincent Pyramide (4,215m/13,828ft) 2000
  • Schwarzhorn (4,322m/14,180ft) 2000
  • Balmenhorn (4,167m/13,671ft) 2000
  • Ludwigshöhe (4,341m/14,242ft) 2000
  • Parrotspitze (4,432m/14,541ft) 2000
  • Signalkuppe (4,554m/14,941ft) 2000
  • Zumsteinspitze (4,563m/14,970ft) 2000
  • Dufourspitze (4,634m/15,203ft) 2000
  • Nordend (4,609m/15,151ft) 2000
  • Barre des Ecrins Traverse (4,101m/13,455ft) 1999
  • Aiguille du Tour PD (3,529m/11,578ft) 1998
  • Midi-Plan Traverse PD (3,673m) 1998
  • Mont Blanc PD (4,807m/15,771ft) 1998
  • Arolla Pigne Arolla (3,796m/12,454ft) 1998
  • Mont Blanc de Cheilon Traverse AD 1998

New Zealand

  • Aoraki Mount Cook (3,754m/12,316ft) 2002
  • Mount Aspiring (3,033m/9,951ft) 2002

South America

  • Cordillera Real, Huayna Potosi (6,088m/19,974ft) 2001
  • Illimani (6,438m/22,401ft) 2001
  • Pequeno Alpamayo (5,370m/17,618ft) 2001
  • Cabeza de Condor (5,648m/18,530ft) 2001
  • Ala Derecha (5,482m/17,986ft) 2001

Elsewhere

  • Korzhenevskaya, Tajikistan (7,105m/23,310ft) 2016
  • Ismoil Somoni, Tajikistan (7,495m/24,590ft) 2016 (no summit)
  • Peak Lenin, Kyrgyzstan (7,134m/23,406ft) 2014
  • Greenland - 3 weeks exploratory mountaineering (East Coast, Lead guide) 2013
  • Mount Meru (4,566m/14,980ft) - 2009
  • Svalbard, Kongsfjorden region, Science Support 2007
  • South Georgia, Travel Area Safety Assessment 2004
  • Mount Athabasca Traverse (3,491m/11,453ft) 2003
  • White Pyramid (3,275m/10,745ft) 2003
  • Mount Hector (3,394m/11,135ft) 2003
  • Mount Birdwood, Lizzie’s Ridge (3,097m/10,161ft) 2003
  • Snowdome, Fortress, Gusty 2003
  • Vatnajökull Icecap - Hvannadalshnúkur attempt (2,119m/6,952ft) 2001
  • Jebel Toubkal (4,167m/13,671ft) 1997
  • Popocatépetl (5,452m/17,887gy) - 1996
  • Canadian Rockies, Mount Robson attempt - 1993

Rob is also an Emergency Medical Technician, Combat Medical Technician and Off-Shore medic.

AC IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guide Rob Smith on the summit of Mount Everest

"Rob was a superb guide and climber in all aspects. I never questioned or doubted his leadership or decision-making process."

Claudia Lopez
Lhotse
AC IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guide Rob Smith on the summit of Mount Everest the Himalayan mountains stretched out below in the distance.

"I had an absolute blast climbing Everest with Rob! Rob has a fascinating life story, and always had the best music going in our dining tent. He was so genuine and proactive about making sure we were as prepared as possible for the climb, and even went out of his way to teach us unique skills for fun on rest days that we could use on other mountains. Rob personally inspired me to return to the Himalaya for future climbs, and I'd leap at the chance to climb with him again."

Sophie Hilaire, USA
Everest
AC IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guide Rob Smith in his happy place on the mountain!

"I had an amazing time. Rob always goes above and beyond the call of duty to help out anyone who is on the trip. His humor creates pure joy at Base Camp and his experience and strength always make you feel as safe as you can be. I would love to climb with him again anywhere in the world."

Roman Tschupp, Switzerland
Everest
DISCOVER. ADVENTURE. REPEAT.